High fashion swings wildly on the whims of designers. Some try to shoot for the moon, flamboyant and utterly impractical. Some try to get away with sartorial murder. This season, men’s wear has seen a few tragic numbers, even from venerable designers. Seems that some designers forget fashion is also about looking good.
But Dries Van Noten — there’s a designer who does not try at all. He has been groomed for the part by his provenance, having descended from garment traders and manufacturers. This reflects well on his style, a measured elegance that is the work of self-assured art, one that does not aspire for abject worship. Perhaps he has too much respect for the cloth to demean it with anything vulgar.
Van Noten’s main asset is exemplary tailoring. This gives most of his numbers a figured finish, a very put-together look that can be set to sweet violin music and a screening of Casablanca. Autumn/Winter 2010 is all about clean lines, basic coats and understated lapels that oddly enough look more emblematic of the modern man of the hour than all the dandyish bells and whistles that are the stuff of men’s wear during fashion week.
The designer also gives men an almost feminine grace that hems in a dashing posture. He cinches coats and dinner jackets at the waist, and allows them to flare a bit like ladies’ trenches. The subtle texture of pinstriped suits is enhanced by flat, contrasting collars. Even casualness is a bit more structured than usual, relaxed by the presence of a scarf or durable knit wear.
Van Noten is the staple that a male wardrobe needs, a selection for the best of days. Thrown over erroneous pieces, the label saves the day.
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